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Native British Wild Flowers
maple farm, coach gap lane, langar, notts

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seed sowing guide
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Seed sowing guide - part 2- perennials & biennials


Perennials and biennials

This covers the vast majority of wild flowers. The main point to appreciate here is that they should not be sown into the garden where they are required to flower. This is because unless you are very skilled you will not be able to distinguish the wild flower seedlings from weeds and the growth rate of perennial species tends to be slow in the seedling stage and they are liable to be engulfed by fast-growing annual weed species. The approach to growing them is exactly the same as one would adopt for perennial herbaceous border plants and they should be propagated in clean compost before transplanting into their final flowering positions. Some wild flower species are strictly spring germinators and others will germinate in autumn or spring.

Those which germinate exclusively in the spring may require a prior exposure to prolonged moist cold. This is called stratification or vernalisation and occurs naturally over winter with seed shed in the autumn. Where sowing in spring or summer with species needing stratification we recommend mixing seed with silver sand and keeping moist in the refrigerator for about 6 weeks or longer prior to sowing in trays of clean compost. Moving the mixture into and out of the refrigerator to give alternation of cold levels will promote this artificial stratification process.
A few species have a hard seed coat which prevents water access and resultant germination. Again this is natures method of ensuring that not all seed shed germinates immediately but over an extended period giving better chance of survival of the species. To break down the seed coat or achieve scarification we suggest rubbing them between two sheets of abrasive paper. The seedcoat of large seeds such as Cranesbills, Vetches and Sweet pea can be broken one at a time with coarse sand paper or a junior hacksaw blade.

General recommendation for sowing perennials and biennials

From late June to September with prior scarification if recommended, sow seed shallowly into trays of clean seed compost. Place outside (against north side of a wall or fence so that trays are shaded and can be kept watered with minimum effort when sun strength increases in spring).

A wooden framework around the trays covered with fine mesh wire will exclude rodents which might find seeds and young seedlings appetising. Many species will germinate almost immediately and can be pricked out into pots prior to transplanting into flowering position in late autumn or the following spring, ideally the former.

Species not germinating should be held outside over winter and retained until mid May. Take care that the boxes are not allowed to dry out. Watering should only be necessary to any degree in early autumn and late spring. Most species needing cold exposure will germinate late March/April. Species definitely known to require stratification i.e. spring germinators can with advantage be sown outside up to the end of January whilst a spell of cold weather can still be expected.

Seed received in spring should again be sown outside from April onwards. Any cold treatments required can be carried out in the refrigerator prior to sowing and scarification where indicated. Most species will grow readily, but if some species have been spring sown without their necessary cold exposure they may be held over to the following spring. Seedlings from spring or summer sowings are potted on before being planted out into their flowering positions when soil conditions permit.
Seed to be scarified Seed to be stratified

 

Cranesbills
Dyer's greenweed
Meadow pea
Restharrows
Sweet pea
Vetches



Agrimony
Angelica
Bellflowers
Bittersweet
Bluebell
Bryony
Cuckoo pint
Dropwort
Garlic mustard
Globe flower
Hay rattle
Hemp agrimony
Iris
Marsh marigold
Meadowsweet
Monkshood
Primula species
Ramsons
Sweet cicely
Violets
Wood sage
Yellow archangel

go to previous page (cornfield & other annuals)



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